YOU GOT QUESTIONS?
I GOT ANSWERS.
Tell me the year, make, model, and engine size of your vehicle, and I'll tell you what maintenance you need to do for it. The purpose of this thread is to help you bunch of computer nerds learn a thing or two about what it means to be a real man, and also to show off my impressive skills.
The more appropriate purpose is me acting as your free evaluation man. Don't take it to the dealer, and don't pay Advance Auto $50 just to pull your car's computer codes. Tell me the symptoms your car is making, and I'll tell you where to check.
Rattling metallic noise on the highway?
Engine misfiring/backfiring?
Engine running rough on startup?
Tires wearing unevenly?
Come KROK'S AUTO, for ALL your repair needs.
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KROK'S AUTO REPAIR SHOP
- BIG KROK V8 SS
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Re: KROK'S AUTO REPAIR SHOP
Krok Maaate....
I drive a 2005 Mitsubishi Triton 4wd, 3.0 L Petrol, Man transmission, 240,000 kms (or 149,000 mi)
When I kick her over for the first time in the morning, or later during the day after not being driven for a few hours - when I rev the car, the engine revs but then when I get to about 2000 rpm it seems to lose power, revs go down about 1000, then the revs climb again normally. This can be repeated over and over again for about 10 minutes running time and then the problem goes away.
I put it down to just a cold engine and needing time to warm up in her older age, as it never did this prior to about 150,000 kms (93,000 mi). But maybe you have an idea about something else ? Its kind of annoying as I have stalled the car a few times in the morning during this "warm up" period on steep hills/ traffic lights, which is kind of annoying and embrarrasing to do it in front of that busty sheela in the car next door you know ?
Help me out Krokadillion. **unzips pants in preparation**
I drive a 2005 Mitsubishi Triton 4wd, 3.0 L Petrol, Man transmission, 240,000 kms (or 149,000 mi)
When I kick her over for the first time in the morning, or later during the day after not being driven for a few hours - when I rev the car, the engine revs but then when I get to about 2000 rpm it seems to lose power, revs go down about 1000, then the revs climb again normally. This can be repeated over and over again for about 10 minutes running time and then the problem goes away.
I put it down to just a cold engine and needing time to warm up in her older age, as it never did this prior to about 150,000 kms (93,000 mi). But maybe you have an idea about something else ? Its kind of annoying as I have stalled the car a few times in the morning during this "warm up" period on steep hills/ traffic lights, which is kind of annoying and embrarrasing to do it in front of that busty sheela in the car next door you know ?
Help me out Krokadillion. **unzips pants in preparation**
- BIG KROK V8 SS
- Posts: 1716
- Joined: 06 Jun 2013, 04:29
- Contact:
Re: KROK'S AUTO REPAIR SHOP
Vantobia wrote:Krok Maaate....
I drive a 2005 Mitsubishi Triton 4wd, 3.0 L Petrol, Man transmission, 240,000 kms (or 149,000 mi)
When I kick her over for the first time in the morning, or later during the day after not being driven for a few hours - when I rev the car, the engine revs but then when I get to about 2000 rpm it seems to lose power, revs go down about 1000, then the revs climb again normally. This can be repeated over and over again for about 10 minutes running time and then the problem goes away.
I put it down to just a cold engine and needing time to warm up in her older age, as it never did this prior to about 150,000 kms (93,000 mi). But maybe you have an idea about something else ? Its kind of annoying as I have stalled the car a few times in the morning during this "warm up" period on steep hills/ traffic lights, which is kind of annoying and embrarrasing to do it in front of that busty sheela in the car next door you know ?
Help me out Krokadillion. **unzips pants in preparation**
No familiar with those powertrains you guys have down under. Could be the fuel pump or fuel sender. You might have a vacuum leak. Perform a compression test. Is this happening while driving or just sitting still and revving? If while driving, what speed and gear?
Re: KROK'S AUTO REPAIR SHOP
It would probably happen while driving if I started up the engine and tried to drive off right away. And even then it would be more like a delay in power for a second when I put my foot down going through the gears. After about a minute of driving this would stop. But yeah, i notice it most while idling and revving.
- BIG KROK V8 SS
- Posts: 1716
- Joined: 06 Jun 2013, 04:29
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Re: KROK'S AUTO REPAIR SHOP
Rule of thumb when the engine is not running smoothly or getting all its power:
Before anything is performed, take it to a local shop with an automotive scanner and have them scan it for codes. They should NOT charge you, and if they do try to charge you just to pull codes, go somewhere else because they are being faggots. Write down the codes they tell you that they find and research them online.
1. Check the air intake system, clean it. If its a disposable air filter, buy a reusable/washable one, just remember to put the oil on the side that the air is going into, and not the side that is closer to the engine. Take the throttle body off, clean it with throttle body cleaner (powerful stuff) and even take the time to polish it, just make sure you don't damage the butterfly valve.
2. Run some techron/fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system. Refer to the bottle's directions for application. This will clean the deposits/water sitting in your gas tank, cleans out the lines and fuel filter, and the injectors/intake valves.
^These are the most inexpensive and good starting points, making sure the engine is receiving maximum airflow/fuel flow at the right mixture without any restriction.
3. Next step is the exhaust system. If air and fuel are both freely flowing into the engine, make sure the exhaust is not restricting flow. Usually if this is the case, you have a plugged catalytic converter. I think you said yours was a gas engine and not a diesel, and I don't know what emissions systems they have in place in Australia, (probably none compared to the US). Check for any leaks by listening for whistling noises or metallic sounds upstream from the tailpipe. With the engine off, take something metal (a ratchet works) and tap the underside of your resonator, muffler, and catalytic converter. If you hear pieces moving around, it may be partially clogged. If it has a completely hollow sound, that is normal.
4. Next step is the electrical system. Pull and inspect the spark plugs. Check for damage, you can google or youtube a video on checking spark plugs to give you an idea of how you can diagnose what your spark plugs look like and what your engine may be doing. Make sure they have proper gapping between the electrodes, usually if they are worn long enough, its cheap enough to replace them. When you replace them, IT IS IMPERATIVE to coat the upper threads of the spark plug with dielectric grease. This is an insulator and won't allow moisture buildup to damage the electrodes or leak into the combustion chamber.
5. Not sure if you vehicle has ignition coils or just spark plug wires, check and make sure everything is secured and check for damage/wear.
Since your symptoms are sporadic and not all the time, I wouldn't venture to say there is any mechanical damage that is present, such as worn cam lobes or cracked valves. Check the above first before tearing the engine apart.
Before anything is performed, take it to a local shop with an automotive scanner and have them scan it for codes. They should NOT charge you, and if they do try to charge you just to pull codes, go somewhere else because they are being faggots. Write down the codes they tell you that they find and research them online.
1. Check the air intake system, clean it. If its a disposable air filter, buy a reusable/washable one, just remember to put the oil on the side that the air is going into, and not the side that is closer to the engine. Take the throttle body off, clean it with throttle body cleaner (powerful stuff) and even take the time to polish it, just make sure you don't damage the butterfly valve.
2. Run some techron/fuel injector cleaner through the fuel system. Refer to the bottle's directions for application. This will clean the deposits/water sitting in your gas tank, cleans out the lines and fuel filter, and the injectors/intake valves.
^These are the most inexpensive and good starting points, making sure the engine is receiving maximum airflow/fuel flow at the right mixture without any restriction.
3. Next step is the exhaust system. If air and fuel are both freely flowing into the engine, make sure the exhaust is not restricting flow. Usually if this is the case, you have a plugged catalytic converter. I think you said yours was a gas engine and not a diesel, and I don't know what emissions systems they have in place in Australia, (probably none compared to the US). Check for any leaks by listening for whistling noises or metallic sounds upstream from the tailpipe. With the engine off, take something metal (a ratchet works) and tap the underside of your resonator, muffler, and catalytic converter. If you hear pieces moving around, it may be partially clogged. If it has a completely hollow sound, that is normal.
4. Next step is the electrical system. Pull and inspect the spark plugs. Check for damage, you can google or youtube a video on checking spark plugs to give you an idea of how you can diagnose what your spark plugs look like and what your engine may be doing. Make sure they have proper gapping between the electrodes, usually if they are worn long enough, its cheap enough to replace them. When you replace them, IT IS IMPERATIVE to coat the upper threads of the spark plug with dielectric grease. This is an insulator and won't allow moisture buildup to damage the electrodes or leak into the combustion chamber.
5. Not sure if you vehicle has ignition coils or just spark plug wires, check and make sure everything is secured and check for damage/wear.
Since your symptoms are sporadic and not all the time, I wouldn't venture to say there is any mechanical damage that is present, such as worn cam lobes or cracked valves. Check the above first before tearing the engine apart.
- BIG KROK V8 SS
- Posts: 1716
- Joined: 06 Jun 2013, 04:29
- Contact:
Re: KROK'S AUTO REPAIR SHOP
Got my new transmission put on, now featuring an external transmission cooler that bypasses the stock unit completely, which is win/win.
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- Joined: 20 Feb 2013, 05:49
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